One of the cool parts of this project so far, is the teeth. After thinking about how to do this, I decided to 1"x2"'s and 2"x4"'s cut at different angles for the base size and bulk. After that, I took some other chunks of the same material, got a screwdriver, hammer and chipped away making slivers and chunks.
I then took those and stapled them to the bulk tooth in random patterns. This created a chipped, broken kind of look. While I wasn't sure how this would look when I was done, I am very happy with the look.
The next step (when I get to it), is to fill the gaps in between the teeth and where the teeth meet the jaw lines. The idea here is to fill that, then paint it to give a more seamless look.
So, I had great luck with my other bone (for my 1st one). I thought I'd make another one. I decided to change the theme of it. Last time it was more or less a "been the woods, decomposing for awhile" bone. This time I thought I'd a "just been removed bone". Something that still has tendons/muscle attached.
My supply list has changed as my process has changed. When I was doing the last one, I was making a mental list on what I could use that would be better/easier to work with.
This post covers the 1st layer of drywall mud. I went to Home Depot and bought a 5 gallon container of drywall mud. This thing will take several coats to cover and then more to form different features. I got the 1st coat on and filled in 3/4 of the surface. A 2nd coat should get it completely covered.
Just so you know I used the entire bucket of this stuff and will have to get more tomorrow or next I go to Home Depot. The downside with using drywall mud or all purpose mud (basically), is that by the time I am done, this thing will have some weight to it. I'm guessing it will weigh about 75lbs maybe more. I will weigh it when I am done.
This post covers the chicken wire. The chicken wire is to further define features and to further form the kong skull. I applied this using my air stapler, using 1/2" staples.
Since chicken wire is bendable, it can be formed to further define features. If you look in the picture below (#05), you can see how the chicken wire further defines the top of the nose.
This post covers the padding. I added padding for a few reasons. It takes up bulk and stops my mud from falling out (backer). This is padding from couch that kept for something just like this. It was about 2' by 2' square.
Using this for bulk around the eyes and nose, helps define certain areas of the skull. To apply the padding I used my air staple gun. For areas that were to tight to get the gun into I used 3m adhesive spray.
This post covers the framing part of this project. I have decided to change a thing or two just to make this thing unique. I have altered the mouth and lower jaw, everything else I'm trying to get pretty much right on.
I started with just the basic frame and have then just added smaller pieces here and there for backing or to further define some features. After this I will further define areas by using a batting kind of material. This will help form more rigid eyes, jaw bone line, and nose. The chicken wire will help even further define areas for me before applying the plaster in the final stages.